Monday, April 19, 2010

To the bush, again!

I'm packing my stuff up at Billie's today and hittin the road. I'll probably leave a duffel bag of gear here, things that i don't need, so i will be back. My friend Travis is going to give me a ride up Murphy Dome so i don't have ferry gear up and down the hill on the bike. I am going to leave the bike on the top of the hill this time and hike in. On this trip i'll be heading out to visit Doug, and see what kind of work he needs to get done this summer. Not sure how long i'm going to stay out there i'm packing enough food for 10+ days. A couple options i've considered from now til i work this summer are riding to Denali National Park or accompanying Travis on a couple week journey to his bush cabin. Travis works for Denali Park during the summer so he likes to get to his bush cabin to plant a vegetable crop in the spring to harvest in the fall. I'm just going to see where the chips fall, that's how how i've been playing it so far and it's been working pretty good. Doug has satellite internet in the bush so i'll try to send an update. I'll be in touch.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Chatanika River V

Hear is the final post from my trip to the Chatanika river. I was originally going to head out on thursday morning but after i met up with Ralf and Travis i thought i'd stay until they left. It turned out they were going to stay til friday so that worked for me. So after spending 2 nights in Ralfs cabin it was friday morning and time to head out. After helping Ralf clean up the cabin and get it ready for the next use i loaded up the bike and and psyched myself up for the trudge up the hill. My plan was to leave an hour or two before the guys and get a head start up the hill and if i ran into problems they would be coming up behind eventually to help. It was a beautiful day, blue sky, very little wind and nice and cool. Snow conditions were pretty good heading up the trail, nice and hard packed with just a dusting of fresh snow on top. Some of the trail was just too steep, riding a loaded bike, so i had to walk about 50% of the time. I made it half way up the climb in an hour and i was certainly happy with that. When i was stopped Travis was making his way up the trail behind me on his snowmachine with his dog Buster in his lap. After everyone else, Ralf and Bill, showed up they went on ahead, with the hardest of the trail done it looked like i'd be able to get to the top on my own. After another hour of riding and walking i made it to the top and took another break. I had worked up a pretty good sweat so i changed my base layer to be sure i would stay warm on the ride down the other side of Murphy Dome. I had learned my lesson the last time down that hill so i added another jacket as well. This ride down was much more comfortable and when i got to the bottom made another clothing adjustment then rode the rest of the way to Billie's, stopping for a frozen pizza and a coke on the way of course. Overall the trip took just 4 hours, shorter than i figured.
Overall the trip turned out better than anyone could have imagined. I was able to bond with some new friends and i met someone out at Ralfs that needs some work done at his property. Since i've been back i've been in touch with this guy, his name is Doug, and it looks like i'll be working in the bush for the summer! Doug needs someone that will do some general labor type work and i will be supplied with my own little cabin and food. So all the $ that i make i will be able to save. I will still have the opportunity to come into town from time to time and Doug has satellite internet so i will be able to stay in touch when i'm not in town.
To wrap up the trip i have a couple videos of the trek up the hill, sorry the final vid kind of cuts off suddenly.
My plans for next couple weeks include going out to Dougs place and see what he needs done and get to know him a little bit before i spend a whole summer out there. After that i might jump on the bike and visit Denali Park until work needs to start out at Dougs.
Keep checking back, the adventure is just beginning!!!!!

Monday, April 12, 2010

Chatanika River IV
















In this post i'm going to include some pics and video i haven't used so far from this adventure. I feel i should mention i have been using the term snowmachince quite a lot. For those that don't understand what that is, it is just what a snowmobile is called up here in Alaska. And the term "sled" refers to something being towed, not a snowmachine/snowmobile. Most all snowmachines i've seen here in Alaska are all "long tracks," and are meant for towing and work. I know that there is still a population using them for recreation but here in Fairbanks they are generally a tool.

The pictures i'd like to show you today include one of my "fire-ring" at my tent camp. Found a big log off in the trees and used it for a bench. The ring was just snow that was also from the surrounding area. The ground was still frozen but with my fire there it was starting to thaw. In the summer months that whole side of the river turns into mush and the mosquito's are really bad. According to Ralf on his side of the river they are not too bad, being on a hill side there is no standing water and the river acts like a barrier. The next 2 photos are looking down the Chatanika River, first is a zoomed in shot of Ralfs neighbor Bills cabin up on the hillside, the second is just of the river. The ice was still almost 2 feet thick in some spots but in one spot close to Ralfs Cabin it was nearly melted thru so we were able to break through and get water. All of the water used from the river was boiled just to be safe. Bill, Ralfs neighbor came to that same hole to get water or his cabin as well. The next pic is of Travis and Ralfs snow machines, it was in the morning when the sun was just coming up so the photo is kinda dark. The last pic have today is of a pair of "bunny boots." They are considered the winter and arctic standard here in Alaska. They were originally made for the military but now if you live in the interior of Alaska it's almost a requirement to have a pair. You can pick up a pair at the military surplus store in town for only $60 to $90. If you see pictures or video of someone in the arctic they will most likely be wearing a pair of bunny boots and Carhart bibs.

I also have a video of the "bear keg" i took out to the river and it's contents. I believe i mentioned before i was storing it about a 5 minute walk from my camp so if there were any bears awake yet they would most likely stay away from my tent camp. After i moved into Ralfs cabin i just kept it right outside the door to keep my perishable goods cold.

After this post i have one more from the river and heading out back up the hill.





























Sunday, April 11, 2010

Chatanika River III





















Today i'd like to start off by telling you a little about the guys i met up with out in the bush. I have mentioned Ralf on several previous posts but here is a some background on him. He moved to Alaska about 14 years ago, originally being from Germany. He still has a heavy German accent so it is fun just to listen to him talk. He moved to Alaska with the intention of buying a bush property and living "off the grid." He found a property he wanted and stayed out there 8 years, coming to town just to get necessary supplies. The property he bought already had a cabin on it but he also built a greenhouse for veggies, a tool shed and a storage shed. Eventually the cabin he had burned down from arson so he built his own down the hill. I took him a total of 3 years to construct. Starting from making trails, cutting down trees, building the foundation and finally putting up the walls and roof. He did it all by himself, moving the logs with snowmachine, winch, and a rigged up crane to hoist logs up the walls! He also eventually built a 2 story hostel on his property. That was constructed with 2x4 framing and plywood. The hostel idea never really worked out. People wanted showers and stuff like that. I myself will not voice my opinion here, but i think you know how i'd fell about that. Anyway after 8 years some things changed in his life and he moved to town and started a business for tourists. Now he barely has time to make it out to the property, maybe once or twice a year. His business keeps him busy year round. He runs his business out of Billie's in the winter then in the summer manages a R.V. park and runs his tourism business from there. Any time i spend with Ralf is a great chance to learn and soak up information.


After getting to know everyone here at Billie's people started to notice my interests. On of the guys here said you need to meet Travis. He is the same age as me and has very similar interests. Travis moved to Alaska 5 years ago from Colorado looking to live the high adventure lifestyle as well. Travis has bought a property out in the bush only accessible by floating down the river or by bush plane. In the winter he kind of floats around town does some work here and there, some with dog teams and in the summer works at Denali Park. So far the time i've spent around Travis has been like looking at myself in the mirror! He had two working dogs this past winter but then one of them fell through some thin ice and drowned, very sad. He uses the dog(s) for pulling sleds and hauling gear. Out at Ralfs i was able to work with his remaining dog Buster, hauling loads of firewood to the cabin.


Overall i'd have to say i've met the exact people i was looking to connect with when i got t Alaska. Today i have some more pics of Ralfs property. A view from inside of the outhouse, a couple of the hostel, the stacks of firewood close to the cabin. I also wanted to point out those firewood chunks don't get split they go right in the HUGE stove. By filling the stove full of those logs it will run up to 2 days without being touched. I also have a pic from the other side of the cabin with the outhouse on the right up the hill and a storage building down by the river. As for videos i took a few minutes of video walking on and around Ralfs property.























Saturday, April 10, 2010

Chatanika River II





















Was up at 7am wednesday morning. Didn't sleep too much first night out, normal for me, especially after a hard days ride. I was a little sore and tired so i figured i'd lay low for the day. Collect a lot firewood, rest, and eat. I also wanted to check out some of the valley and see what else was around. After breakfast i collected a bunch of firewood til lunch time, ate lunch and then took a walk down one of the other trails thru the valley. After my stroll i made it back to camp and layed down for a nap. After my nap i was planning on starting up a fire for the rest of the afternoon into the evening, going to bed early, getting up early breaking camp and heading back up to Murphy Dome. About an hour into my nap i heard some snowmachines go right by my camp on the trail then across the river. So i got dressed and got out of my tent to see what was going on. I saw a couple snowmachines stopped at one of the cabins across the river. I milled around for a few minutes, went to the bathroom then was going to head across the river to meet whoever was there. By the time i was going to head over there i saw a couple guys get on their machines and head down the river. After that i decided to make a fire and chill out for the rest of the evening. This is where things get interesting. After hanging around the fire for a few hours i looked across the river and saw smoke coming out of the stacks of one of the cabins. I figured that someone was coming back to the cabin eventually. Around 7pm i heard snow machines off in the distance and they were getting closer. I kept an eye on the cabin across the river then one of the snowmachines pulled up and i went over, i could make out a person wearing Carhart overalls with a handgun strapped to his waist. I went to introduce myself. As i approached someone saw me and was making their way toward me, Ralf? Holy cow it was Ralf! And he said what are you doing here? I said i was staying in a tent across the river and he said not anymore, pointed at his cabin and said your staying here now. This was just unreal, i had no idea he was going to be down here. And to find his cabin was a shot in the dark! Then Travis pulled up on his snowmachine. He knew i was going to be out here but didn't expect to see me down there. So they fed me dinner and i met one of his "neighbors" from down the river, also with a 6 gun strapped to his waist. Man it's like the wild west out here! We talked into the evening then i grabbed my sleeping bag and crashed in his cabin for the night. Today i have few more videos of the area and some pics of Rlafs hostel and cabin, cabin on the left and hostel on the right. And some pics of the inside of his cabin. It is 2 story building but i didn't get a photos of the second level, it has 2 rooms and a huge water tank and on demand water heater for running water. More of Ralfs property and area to come.


Friday, April 9, 2010

Chatanika River I
















I'm going to preface this adventure by first saying a lot happened on this trip and it's going to take me a couple days to put all of it together to show you. I will be doing several posts in a row to tell the story.










The original plan was to pack 4 days of food and head out for 2 days then check in with the guys back here at the Hostel with my cell phone on t0p of Murphy Dome, see how i fell then maybe head out for 2 more days. I packed up the bike and hit the road tuesday morning about 10am. I wasn't 100% sure of my route but i planned to ride to the top of Murphy Dome then take one of the trails down the other side into one of the valleys and hoped to run into the Chatanika River somewhere. My friend Ralf here at the Hostel said that he had a bush property with some buildings on it and i thought maybe i could try to find it, even though i had no idea what i was looking for. The ride up to Murphy Dome was a lot harder this time hauling gear, food and water. When i got to the top i picked a trail that looked like it headed in the right direction, down, and went for it. The first few minutes were a mild grade then it really dropped off and i picked up a lot of speed! Wow, one hell of a rush! Twists, turns, humps and did i mention fast! Navigating the trail with a bike loaded with gear and not knowing where i was going was a little nerve racking. Well i finally made it to the bottom of the valley and came across a few canoes locked up to trees right next to the river. Here the trail went out on the river and back across the valley paralleling the river. The whole time i was traveling on the trail i was looking for a good place to camp. Along the trail there was still a couple feet of snow on the ground so i just kept going down the trail. The trail then turned and went out to the river again. Upon getting to the river i noticed a couple cabins on the other side. I got off the bike and wandered around the bank for a while hoping to find some clear flat ground to set up a camp. I found some fairly open ground and i think the only flat spot in the valley! I set up camp found a bunch of downed trees trees for firewood and made plans for dinner. After making dinner about a five minute walk away i went back to camp, made a fire and settled in for the night. Later in the night owls were chatting away all through the valley and one happened to perch in one of the trees right over my tent. Today i have some pics of the bike, a view of the trail looking down from Murphy Dome, camp with a view of a cabin across the river, another pic of the camp and the trail through the valley. I have 3 videos from the first day, the bike, after setting up camp and my cooking area and water supply. More to come.






Monday, April 5, 2010

I've spent the last couple of days collecting some gear and food to do some over night trips into the bush. I was able to pick up a bear keg, a big plastic "bear proof" container to store food and anything with odor in. Got it from someone that lives here at Billie's for half the price of one at the store. From him i also got a couple cans of bear spray, pretty much pepper spray cans on steroids, for a really good deal. Depending who you talk to bear spray is the way to go. But then again a lot of people won't go into the bush without a gun. I guess i'll just have to see how i feel about it after a few trips out. That stuff along with some other things like dry bags, water bottles and cages for the bike and some really nice straps to attach everything to the bike and i'm ready to go. The original plan was to head out for up to 4 days but now i have a job prospect and have to be back in a couple days. If i have the job then off to southeast Alaska, if not i'm going to head out again. We'll have to see how that all pans out. The weather here has been just beautiful and is warming up fast. I was out in shorts and a t-shirt today! The nights are still getting below freezing, which is fine, makes riding off road easier, hard packed ground and some snow. Pretty soon every thing will turn to mush and it will be harder to take a bike into the bush. The plan is to be on the road by 8 to 9am while it's still cool, head up and over Murphy Dome somewhere around 7 to 14 additional miles from the top, totaling around 35 to 43 miles. Who knows maybe i'll go further, cross that bridge when i come to it. Out for a couple days then back to Billie's. I'll get some pics and video up when i get back.